Backroad Delight at Checkerboard Hil
By Mallory Cawthra
If you’re looking for an adventure on a clear day, look no further than Checkerboard Hill. Located approximately 17 km northwest of Leader, Saskatchewan, views of the South Saskatchewan River Valley are worth the drive/hike. Checkerboard Hill culminates at a “dead-end” on Checkerboard Hill Road, complete with a checkered dead-end sign (possible name inspiration?). The cliff’s edge is enclosed with cattle fencing, and you’ll notice multiple sign boards on posts, providing historical information related to the surrounding area.
The view includes the South Saskatchewan River Valley, coulee in the hills where hunters used to drive buffalo, Bull’s Forehead (a river bend), and Red River cart tracks that are still visible on the North side of the river (as per the signage). The site should be visited in the Summer or Fall, to truly appreciate the unobstructed, breathtaking view.
One of the signs reads: “In 1870-1880, many Metis lived near the South Saskatchewan river. They carted furs on the Fort-Walsh-Battleford Trail and later on the Swift Current-Edmonton Trail”. The sign further explains that the Metis left the area with the introduction of the railway and the disappearance of the buffalo, which was an integral part of their livelihood.
Another sign describes how in 1914, W.T. “Horseshoe” Smith built the largest barn in North America, but it was taken over by a Trust company and dismantled in 1921. There is a replica of the barn on the original foundation: four miles west and six miles north of Leader - unfortunately the Smith Barn site is currently closed. Further reading revealed that from 1907-1911, there used to be a two-man Royal North West Mounted Police detachment called “Montgomery Landing Detachment,” near the South Saskatchewan River crossing.
It should be mentioned that there is a yellow sign at Checkerboard Hill that forewarns of rattlesnakes in the area. A sign board states that the prairie rattlesnake is a threatened species in Saskatchewan; the surrounding area is a natural habitat of the rattlesnake and human disturbance and habitat destruction threaten their existence. It can be surmised that they are unlikely to frequent the area when humans are nearby, but if you hear a rattle, be alert!
In short, Checkerboard Hill is a must see while touring Southwest Saskatchewan, and worth going back if you’ve been before!
Photos by Mallory Cawthra (click for larger images)
